Wednesday, 8 September 2010

Frothing Soda Can Trick

Frothing Soda Can TrickThis Halloween trick does take time to prepare, but gives the people who don't give candy cause to fret thinking that someone has left them a messy trick. The cans look like the contents are fizzing out at first glance on a dark Halloween night, but actually it's a cleverly made stage prop.

The Frothing soda cans need to be made a day or two in advance of Halloween and younger kids my need help from a grown-up with the expandable foam.

To make a fizzing can Halloween trick you will need...
Some empty drinks cans that formerly contained a fizzy drink,
A tin of Expanding Foam,
And a few old plastic carrier bags.

First you need to rinse the cans to remove any sticky residue. Shake them dry. There's no need to dry them properly and the foam needs the surface to be wet. If you want to add some dents to the can, this can add a bit more realism to the finished prop.

You need to decide if your tin can will be lying down and foaming or if it is going to be stood upright. Spread out a carrier bag on a table to protect it from the foam, and place you can on the bag, either stood up or laying down.

Follow the instructions on the can to set up the nozzle on the expanding foam, and shake well.

Then insert the nozzle into the soda can and spray the foam in. You're not trying to fill the can, but to simply give the foam some anchorage on the inside of the can. Whilst still spraying, let the nozzle come out of the can and foam down the side, or around in front.

Remember less is more - the foam expands. Even a small amount of foam will expand into a larger amount of foam. If you over do it, it looses its realistic look.

Leave the can for a couple of hours to form a hardened skin. When you feel able, pick up the can and carefully peel off the carrier bag from the foam and leave upside down to dry the underside.

Leave the prop to one side for 24 hours to completely dry.

Hide the trick in the bottom of your Halloween goody bag. This keeps it hidden from people who you want to play tricks on, and it means that you have it with you ready for action for those Halloween party poopers.


Wednesday, 1 September 2010

Herb Garden Design - How to Make a Herb Spiral

Herb Garden Design - How to Make a Herb SpiralBy John Beaver

When you are thinking about herb garden design, but realise that your yard will only accommodate a very small area for herbs, and yet you are keen to grow a wide variety to complete your herb garden delights, there is a way to maximise your growing space in a small plot. That is by designing a herb spiral.

A herb spiral is simply a way to introduce herbs into your kitchen garden in a small space, with a spiral of bricks or large stones or any ornamental building material which encloses a heap of soil up to two metres wide, and about a metre or so high.

Basically the idea behind this concept is to provide space for as many different herbs as possible in a restricted area. The shape of the spiral and the height differences that you create provides different environments which you could not obtain in a level small space.

Your finished spiral does not have to form a circle but it is neater and easier to work in than an oval shape. After all the idea is that you can easily reach to the centre of the completed spiral for planting, pruning and harvesting. Where you actually site your spiral will be a matter of your own choice, but if you intend to concentrate on culinary herbs then as close as possible to your kitchen is the ideal. Just remember that you will need a bright sunny position.

The materials that you are needing, besides the wall brick or stones, will be small pebbles, pea shingle, course sand, a non peat compost as your growing medium, some fairly thick cardboard or a supply of newspaper, some composted organic material and some ordinary garden soil.

First of all you need to practise drawing a spiral to scale of 1mm= 1cm. Put four dots as points of a diamond 200mm apart on your paper. Inside each dot place another dot 50mm away and then one more dot in the centre, which will of course be a further 50mm inside all the second layer of dots. Now starting at the top dot, draw your spiral by joining the dots keeping your line 50mm apart as you progress round and round. Having practised this on paper you should have no difficulty doing the real outline on the garden plot using cm instead of mm.

Line the outer ring of the spiral with the cardboard or newspapers to stop weeds coming up. Lay out the outer ring to the fourth dot with your building material (two layers if using house bricks) but gradually raising the level to 50cm and infill to quarter height with garden soil. On top of that goes a 10cm layer of the composted organic material topped off with a layer of pebbles, a layer of pea shingle and a layer of course sand. Leaving about 15cm unfilled at the top.

While filling in, continue to place the inner ring of building material as far as the eighth dot gradually raising the level until you are about a metre high. Finally complete the spiral by continuing level, build round to the centre dot and finish infilling as described. You should now have a gently rising spiral of sand which needs to be topped with about 15cm of your growing medium.

As a design refinement you could make a small pond at the outer end of the spiral. Just dig a hole and line it with a suitable waterproof material, creating a swamp area at the outer edges. If you have electric power available you could install a pump in a suitable pond and have a misting spray coming out of the middle of your spiral. You will naturally have to lay the necessary piping before you start laying your spiral, and of course keep the pond topped up with water; but you did not need me to remind you of that.

My name is John and I've been interested in growing and using herbs for longer than I care to think about. Having carried out a great deal of research on the subject I've now compiled a huge amount of knowledge which I would like to share. To see more great information about herb garden design, please visit my website where there is so much more information generally about herb gardening. Also you will find there are details of a free herb gardening mini-course that I have prepared for you, at: http://www.herbgardendelights.com. I must apologise to anyone who wanted to access my website early in January because it was out of action due to a malfunction. Everything is now working properly. If you were to Google "John Beaver" you will find there are hundreds of us out there, but I am the one on the first page listed for EzineArticles. So if you have missed any previous article you can find them all listed there.


Fish Quilt Pattern - How to Choose the Right Pattern

Fish Quilt Pattern - How to Choose the Right Pattern
By Cathy Thomas

How to Choose the Right Pattern and Fabrics for Your Fish Quilt...


Let me walk you through the process of how I created my fish quilt pattern and how you can find or create a pattern that will be right for you. The process of creating a beautiful quilt starts with finding the right pattern. To do this, ask yourself why you are making the quilt. Is it to hang on the wall? Is it for a bedspread? Or is it going to be a gift for a friend or family member? Whatever the case may be, your reason is the first step in helping you determine a pattern that is right for you.

Once you have your reason, visit your local quilt shop and look for a fish quilt pattern that matches the picture in your head. Oftentimes, shop owners or workers will be more than happy to assist you and help you find a pattern to match your needs and skill level. However, if your local quilt store does not have what you want, many women are going online to find what they need. By simply doing a search, you can find lots of different quilt stores or pattern shops that will have just what you need.

Once you have your fish quilt pattern selected, you now get to look for fabrics. This part can often be hard for quilters as they have a difficult time imagining how certain fabrics and colors will change the look and feel of the quilt pattern. Here are a few suggestions to keep in mind.

First, when considering the tone and color of your fabrics, remember that warmer colors such as reds, oranges, and yellows appear closer, while cooler colors appear further away. By choosing how you integrate colors, you can create depth on your quilt.

Second, consider what effect you want your quilt to have on those who use it or see it hanging on the wall. Warmers colors illicit excitement and hightened levels of alertness. Cool colors have a very calming and soothing effect.

As you consider these variables, you will be able to create a quilt that is perfect for you and will become a treasured family heirloom.

A Brief Story of How My Fish Quilt Pattern Came to Be...


Determined My Reason
As a quilt designer, I am constantly searching for new ideas or images that I can turn into a beautiful design for a quilt. The idea for my first fish quilt pattern came to me from a personal experience that is very near to my heart. Several years ago, my son and daughter-in-law decided to adopt a little boy from Haiti. The process was long and arduous. Emotions were up and down, but the day finally came when I was able to meet my new grandson. And in honor of his arrival, I created a beautiful brightly-colored fish quilt for him.

Determined My Fabrics
I used many different batik fabrics to represent the bright colors of the tropics and the spirit of the Haitian people. I someday want to be able to sit down with my grandson and explain to him the story behind his fish quilt and how it came to be. I will tell him all about the beautiful fish that swim in the Caribbean and of the country where he was born. It will be a special moment.

What Are Batik Fabrics...
Batik fabrics are made from a very specialized process that involves the use of bees wax and paraffin during the dying process. By using the wax and paraffin, the fabric designer is able to create very intricate designs and patterns on the fabric because the dye does not penetrate the fabric. Oftentimes, a batik fabric will be waxed and dyed multiple times to create unrivaled color combinations and patterns. Once the process is finished, the wax is melted from the fabric and the design is fully revealed.

Because of the intense process used to create batik fabrics, they are almost always made from very high quality, high thread count cotton or silk fabrics. This gives the fabric a much more vibrant and detailed look than if the fabric were made from loosely woven fibers. It also produces a very high quality and comfortable quilt for use in your home or as a gift.

Click here to see how to get a copy of "Sea Jewels" - Fish Quilt Pattern. Also, visit my blog and see pictures of this beautiful Fish Quilt. Pattern Design by Cathy Thomas, owner of Cat's Creations and Little House Quilting. Cathy Thomas is the mother of four and grandmother of four. She has been a professional longarm quilter for the past nine and a half years and has more recently launched her own pattern line and blog. To find out more about Cathy and her work, click the link above to visit her blog.


Tuesday, 17 August 2010

Halloween Pumpkin Carving Tips

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Halloween Pumpkin Carving TipsHalloween will soon be upon us and here are some handy Halloween Pumpkin Carving Tips...

Pick a fresh pumpkin. Often, you can go to a field nearby and actually pick this, or you can get one at a local store. Pick one that you like. Short and fat, tall and skinny, it’s totally up to you. Depending on the variety, pumpkins can range in size anywhere from very small to gigantic. Inspect the pumpkin carefully for bruises, soft spots or any indications of mould or mildew.

Carved pumpkins can go bad after two weeks. Carve your pumpkin only a few days before Halloween or it may start to shrivel up and cave in.

Carving pumpkins don't necessarily make great eating pumpkins. So although it is suggested that you could make pumpkin pie, it probably wouldn’t be as tasty as you would like it to be. However, you can save the seeds to roast and eat later or give to the birds. You can also save them to maybe plant next year and grow your own pumpkin.

Carve your pumpkin where you will be comfortable - sitting at table, standing over it, or holding it in your lap.

Cut the lid first, a hexagonal cut rather than circular cut helps keep the lid from falling into the pumpkin as the pumpkin lid begins to dry out and shrink. Always draw the shape of your lid very lightly with a water based marker, so that you can wash it off later.

Remember to cut the lid hole large enough so that you will be able to reach into it with your hand and the long-handled spoon, and so that you will have enough room to place a lighting device inside it too.

Cut a small chimney hole in the lid to let the heat and smoke from the candle escape.

Remove the pulp and seeds from the inside of the pumpkin and wipe down the outside to remove all debris.

Halloween pumpkin carving is no longer just cutting some eyes and a mouth. Now you can carve sophisticated designs with the use of pumpkin kits developed by some very creative people. You can also find free printable Pumpkin patterns online, so have a look around.

Halloween Pumpkin Carving TipsPin or tape your chosen pattern onto your pumpkin and cut out the black areas of the pumpkin pattern, and then tape the pattern to the pumpkin. Using a sharp tool press rows of ‘dots’ along the features of the pattern. On large designs you can use the larger poker and place the dots farther apart, but for detailed designs, use the small poker and place the dots close together. Remove the pattern when you have done this stage but do not discard it, but use if as reference as to how the design should look.

To carve your pumpkin simply cut along the dots like a ‘dot to dot’ puzzle. Cut out the traced areas starting with the smallest areas first. For small round holes it is easier if you use a borer.

Remember to cut away from yourself and into the pumpkin. After each feature has been cut out slowly push out the cut pieces from inside the pumpkin.

Finally, coat the inside and exposed edges with petroleum jelly or a spray-on preserver like PumpkinFresh.com to help your Jack O' Lantern last as long as possible.

Decorate you pumpkin with fake spiders or draw a spider on the pumpkin with a black marker pen.


Saturday, 7 August 2010

How to Make a Medieval Bag for a Medieval Princess

How to Make a Medieval Bag for a Medieval PrincessDressing up as a medieval princess is all well and good, but unlike medieval ladies of the time whose bags would have only contains a few coins, a the pious would also carry their paternoster (prayer beads that later became known as a rosary), nether of which would take up as much room as modern day essentials, items such as your mobile phone, lipstick, car keys, purse and digital camera for those Kodak moments.

It’s not easy to find a medieval style handbag on the high street that would accompany a medieval princess style dress, but you can make a little decorative medieval looking pouch quite easily.

This little medieval bag pattern makes up a small drawstring shoulder bag which is fully lined. If you have made the medieval dress yourself, the bag can be made in left over fabric to match the dress.

To Make a Medieval Bag or Pouch you will need...
A sheet of A4 paper to make a pattern,
2 pieces of contrasting fabric,
Some lining material,
Some lace or ribbon for embellishment,
A length of cord and a tassel of the same colour,
A chunky bead and a smaller bead,
A length of wide elastic in a similar colour to the lining material if possible,
And some strong glue.

To make the Pattern
Fold the A4 paper in half long ways to make a long thin piece. Then fold the paper in half the other way to reduce the length of the tall strip, and then unfold this second fold. This crease is a marker.

From one end at the fold, begin to cut a triangle from the point going out to the where the crease and the side edge of the paper meet. You are aiming to cut out a shield type shape.

This is your medieval bag pattern.

Cutting the Fabric
You will need to cut 2 bag shapes from the lining material and the main colour material.

If you are using a fabric with a nap, make sure that the nap strokes down the bag to the tip.

Once you have cut out the full pieces, cut along the marker crease on the pattern and discard the square shape. Cut our two pieces of the triangle shape, from the contrasting fabric. Turn the straight raw edge of the fabric over and press.

Sewing the Bag
Sew the two lining pieces around the long edges and the point.

Set out the two main bag parts and lay on top the contrasting fabric. Where the two fabrics join, lay on a length of ribbon or lace. Pin everything into place before sewing.

With the two embellished bag parts, right sides together – sew together as you did for the lining. Turn right sides out.

Carefully turn down a small hem (1 cm) around the opening of the bag and pin in place.

Push the lining into the bag, and again fold down a small hem and pin it to the main bag hem just below the top edge. Sew the lining to the main bag.

Gathering the Top
The neck of the bag is gathered with wide elastic about 2 inches from the top edge. Firmly attach the end of the elastic to the inside of the bag on a seam. Then set the sewing machine to large zigzag stitch to sew along the elastic. Pull the elastic tightly as you sew, this gathers up the fabric of the bag. Sew all around and then finish off neatly.

This opening can be left as it is or you can add some Velcro if you want to seal the bag more securely.

Cord Embellishment and Tassel
Starting on the lowest most point of the bag, pin the cord that is to be used for the handle along the side seam of the bag. Follow the seam all the way up to the gathered top, and then leave a length of cord for the handle (enough to allow the bag to sit on the hip when worn over the shoulder is ideal) Then follow the seam down from the gathered part back down to the point on the bottom of the bag. Use some tape to seal the ends of the cord to prevent it from unravelling. Sew the cord into place.

How to Make a Medieval Bag for a Medieval Princess
To Attach the Tassel
Cover your taped cord ends in glue and push on a chunky bead that secures the cord ends inside it. Then slip a bead onto the tassel, and poke the tassels loop up into the glued part of the first bead. A cocktail stick is a handy tool for this task. Leave the bag to one side for the glue to dry.

A Notice for Medieval Men
It was considered a token of affection to present one's lady love with a bag, so you had better print off this pattern and make that special medieval lady in your life a medieval drawstring bag.


Thursday, 5 August 2010

Free Dress Making Sewing Patterns

FREE PATTERNS

Here you'll find a selection of free patterns for you to try at home. Most of the patterns you'll find here are very simple patterns, so if you're looking for something a little more challenging why not have a look at some of the other patterns avaliable on the site!

 



Product ImageItem Name-Price
Free Draw String Trouser Pattern PLUS SIZES 22-36

Free Draw String Trouser Pattern PLUS SIZES 22-36

  These trousers are very simple and make up very quickly.   The pattern has had 6cm added around the waist and hips as well as 3cm...


... more info
Free Draw String Trouser Sewing Pattern 8-22

Free Draw String Trouser Sewing Pattern 8-22

  These trousers are very simple and make up very quickly.   The pattern has had 6cm added around the waist and hips as well as 3cm...


... more info
Free Long A-Line Skirt Pattern PLUS SIZES 22-36

Free Long A-Line Skirt Pattern PLUS SIZES 22-36

This skirt is very easy to make and would be an ideal beginners project.   The skirt is simply made from two pieces of fabric, a front and a...


... more info
Free Long A-Line Skirt Sewing Pattern Sizes 8-22

Free Long A-Line Skirt Sewing Pattern Sizes 8-22

This skirt is very easy to make and would be an ideal beginners project.   The skirt is simply made from two pieces of fabric, a front and a...


... more info